Suriname's food comes from five different cultures that never merged into one generic "local" cuisine. Order at a Hindustani roti shop or a Javanese warung and you get the real, distinct version of each.
What to expect
Stand near any roti shop around midday and the smell of curry and cardamom will pull you in before the sign does. Suriname has a mix of food because people from all over the world moved here. The Hindustani brought roti and curries. The Javanese brought fried rice (nasi) and noodles (bami). The Creole people brought stews and root vegetables. Even the Chinese and Dutch added their own flavors to the mix.
None of these cuisines blended together into one generic style. If you go to a roti shop, you get real Hindustani food. If you go to a Javanese warung, you get real Javanese food. Most people in Paramaribo eat roti for lunch and a spicy soup for breakfast in the same week, switching cuisines the way other cities switch neighborhoods.
The best place to start is the Centrale Markt in the city. You will see hundreds of vendors selling fresh vegetables, spicy peppers, and ready-to-eat snacks. Look for the Madame Jeanette pepper - it is bright yellow and extremely hot. Surinamese people put it on almost everything.
The main food cultures
Signature dishes
If you only have a few days, make sure you try these eight dishes.
A baked dish made with chicken and a root vegetable called tayer. It is savory and a bit sweet. People always eat this at parties and big celebrations.
A flatbread served with curried chicken, potatoes, and long beans. You eat it with your hands. Most shops sell out before 2:00 PM.
Fried rice or fried noodles seasoned with sweet soy sauce (ketjap). They usually come with chicken and a spicy side sauce.
A chicken broth with bean sprouts and shredded chicken. It is very light and often eaten for breakfast at small stalls called warungs.
Rice mixed with different ingredients like salted meat, fish, or beans. It is a simple, home-style meal that fills you up.
Fried plantain in batter, served with a spicy peanut sauce. It is the most popular snack in the country and costs very little.
Boiled cassava and sweet potato served with salted fish. This dish is part of the country's history and is now served in many restaurants.
A sandwich filled with spiced salted cod and hot pepper. You can buy these at small sandwich shops throughout the city.
Popular drinks
A sweet pink drink made with coconut milk and ginger. Best served very cold.
The local beer. It is light and you can find it almost anywhere in the city.
Fresh juice made from a tropical fruit. You can find it at the market.
Milk tea with spices. You usually get this at roti shops.
Strong coffee, usually served black. This is a Dutch tradition.
A drink made from cassava by Indigenous people in the jungle.
Where to eat
The best food in Paramaribo is often found at small stalls or markets, not in fancy hotels.
Go here in the morning. Many small stalls sell hot food and snacks. It closes around 1:00 PM.
Small shops where you can buy nasi, bami, and soup. A full meal costs about $5.
Choose your curry and they wrap it in bread. Go before 1:00 PM because they sell out fast.
Local shops that sell fried rice and noodles. They are usually run by families.
You will see people selling bakabana and other snacks on many street corners.
A strip of restaurants along the river. It is a nice place to eat dinner as the sun sets.
Practical tips
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